You may have heard of Sai Kung, the back garden of Hong Kong, and popular islands such as Cheung Chau Island and Lamma Island accessible from Central, but did you know about the Double Haven of Hong Kong?
In this post, prepare yourselves, because the real adventure begins – an unforgettable one-day adventure through the stunning Double Haven region. We’ll be visiting two of Hong Kong’s most charming remote islands, Ap Chau and Kat O, along with the historic mainland village of Lai Chi Wo
Double Haven is part of the Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark, showcasing pristine waters, ancient villages, and geological wonders that will absolutely mesmerize you. Here’s everything you need to know!
For more travel inspiration, check out our Hong Kong travel guides, including hidden gems, beautiful beaches, and in-depth neighborhood explorations.
Discovering the Double Haven Region
Before we dive into the logistics, let’s get you excited about what makes each of these incredible places so special.
Duck Island (Ap Chau)
Our first stop was the absolutely fascinating Ap Chau, also known as Duck Island – and for a super cool reason! This tiny island was named after its unique shape and form, which resembles a duck sitting on water. You’ll see a prominent rock formation resembling a duck’s head, including a distinctive sea arch as its ‘eye’. It’s so unique.
Ap Chau, Hong Kong‘s smallest inhabited island, is so compact that it only takes about an hour to walk around its entire coast. Once home to around 1,000 residents, primarily fishermen and their families, it now has only three recorded inhabitants and a cute turtle!
The island’s coastline features rare red hue ochre breccia, which is genuinely stunning and quite unique in Hong Kong. In one of my photos, you can see me standing on the “neck” of the duck, a striking ochre-colored rock formation.
Things to Do in Ap Chau:
- Visit the Ap Chau Story Room: Start your journey here to learn about the island’s distinctive geology, culture, and the heritage of the boat people who still reside on the island.
- Stroll Along the Shoreline: Enjoy a leisurely walk and take in the breathtaking views while observing the unique ochre sedimentary rock formations, particularly the breccia.
- Examine Geological Features: Explore the gap in the hill formed by sea erosion, located near the ‘duck’s neck and head’ rock formation, which showcases the distinctive texture and layers of the ochre-colored rock.
Recommended Visit Time: 1 to 1.5 hours is usually perfect to explore all of it.
Crooked Island (Kat O)
Next, we sailed to Crooked Island, also known as Kat O. Tucked away in the northeastern waters of Hong Kong, Kat O offers a refreshing respite, combining rich heritage and natural beauty.
Once home to 6,000 residents, including fisherfolk and farmers, the island now has about 50 people, most of whom were born and raised there. Picture narrow lanes lined with remnants of traditional fishermen’s stilt houses, telling tales of the island’s past.
Discover lush hiking trails, enjoy local delicacies at quaint eateries, and soak in the beautiful landscapes! It is a tranquil and scenic island with many heritage and historical sites.
Things to Do in Kat O:
- Visit the Kat O Story Room: Explore informative displays about the island’s Hakka and fishermen’s heritage, highlighting its vibrant past.
- Kat O Main Street: Discover small shops and restaurants serving local delights like Hakka-style braised pork, hand-rolled squid balls, steamed scallops, and desserts like red bean pudding.
- Kat O Heritage Trail: Follow a 1-hour walk along the main street connecting various heritage sites. This trail features lookouts at Ko Tei Teng and Ko Pang Teng, with stunning views of Shenzhen and Double Haven. You will also come across the Tin Hau Temple and the 100-year-old, which has a wonderful legend of its own. Don’t forget to scan the QR codes on the interpretation panels for stories from locals!
Recommended Visit Time: I’d recommend spending 2 to 3 hours here to truly soak it all in.
Lai Chi Wo Village
Finally, on a separate occasion, we visited the enchanting historic Hakka village of Lai Chi Wo. This not an island, but part of Double Haven regardless. Nestled in the scenic landscape of the Plover Cove Country Park, it is renowned for its rich cultural heritage and natural beauty.
This remarkable settlement was built more than 300 years ago and stands as one of Hong Kong’s oldest, largest, and best-preserved rural villages. It’s an incredible testament to Hakka heritage and rural life. The village boasts more than 200 classic village houses, ingeniously arranged in 3 rows and 9 columns. It’s fascinating to explore!
Things to Do in Lai Chi Wo:
- Siu Ying and Lai Chi Wo Story Room: Check out the Siu Ying Story Room and
Lai Chi Wo Story Room to learn about the village’s 300-year-old history. - Explore the Hakka Village: Wander through the 200+ houses, visit the Hip Tin Temple & Hok Shan Monastery
- Lai Chi Wo Nature Trail: A short 1.2 km nature trail winding around Lai Chi Wo Village covers several eco-sites, taking you through a lush fung shui wood, restored farmland, a serene hill stream, a forest of white-flowered Derris, and a vital mangrove bed. This trail offers a rich experience of the area’s diverse ecosystems and natural beauty.
- Eat Local Hakka Cuisine: Other than the Hakka delicacies that you may also find in Kat O and Ap Chau, you will come across cafes and Farm to Table Restaurants where the menu changes every time you visit, depending on Hong Kong’s seasonal harvest, making it a delightful surprise. Lai Chi Wo is also home to a restored farmland, thanks to revitalization!
Recommended Visit Time: Around 2-3 hours is usually perfect for a visit.
Other Double Haven Gems: Islands & Villages
In addition to Kat O, Ap Chau and Lai Chi Wo, the Double Haven area is home to several uninhabited islands and old hakka villages, each boasting its unique charm. However, these places do not have scheduled public ferry services, so you’ll need to either explore on foot or utilize private boats to explore them.
While Kat O and Ap Chau are the most accessible, the Double Haven (Yan Chau Tong) area is full of “hidden layers.” Some require a private boat, while others are best reached by foot.
1. The Secluded Mainland Villages (Accessible by Hiking)
If you want to go deeper into the Hakka heritage of this area, don’t stop at Lai Chi Wo. These spots are connected by the Double Haven Country Trail:
- Sam A Tsuen: About a 45-minute walk from Lai Chi Wo. Sam A Tsuen is a 300 year old Hakka Village, home to a famous local tea house called Fook Lee Tea House where you can enjoy Authentic Hakka cuisine. It is also known for it’s mangroves and pink rocks.
- Sam A Chung: Just a short distance further, this area offers a stunning, tranquil campsite and some of the best views of the calm, lake-like waters that give Double Haven its name.
2. The Uninhabited Islands (Private Boat Only)
These spots don’t have scheduled public ferries, so you’ll need to hire a “water taxi” (speedboat) from Wong Shek Pier or Ma Liu Shui:
- Double Island (Wong Wan Chau): Accessible in 10–20 minutes by speedboat or for the truly adventurous, by kayaking from Sai Kung.
- Crescent Island (Emei Chau): This island lacks a public pier, so you’ll need to arrange a drop-off and pick-up with a boatman (try Wong Shek Pier). It’s known for its beautiful crescent-shaped bay.
You can find out more about the double haven islands and villages on geopark’s website.
How to Get There
Now for the nitty-gritty! You have three main options for embarking on your Double Haven adventure: from the Sha Tau Kok Pier, the Ma Liu Shui Pier and Tai Shui Hang (Shatin Area 77 Landing). The Kaito Ferry Services to these islands operated by Best Sonic Industrial Limited.
From Sha Tau Kok Pier
Setting off from Sha Tau Kok Pier, you can embark on an incredible one-day island-hopping trip to Double Haven, visiting all three charming villages – Lai Chi Wo, Ap Chau, and Kat O – all in one go!
You need a valid Tourism Closed Area Permit to enter Sha Tau Kok! If you haven’t sorted this out yet, head over to my post on Exploring Sha Tau Kok: Hong Kong’s Hidden Border Town for all the essential details on getting your permit and reaching Sha Tau Kok town.
Kaito Ferry Service Details
Schedule: Daily service (No service on Tuesday, except Public Holidays)
Fare: $40 HKD (single journey to/from Lai Chi Wo/Ap Chau/Kat O)
Service Information: Plan Your Day Meticulously! While it is possible to visit all three islands in one day, it requires planning with the ferry schedule to ensure you don’t miss a connection. Always double-check the latest schedule on the transport department’s website or the operator’s website.
Suggested Itinerary
Here’s how you can brilliantly string together the ferry services to experience Kat O, Lai Chi Wo, and Ap Chau all in one fantastic day, with enough time to explore each!
- Departure: Start your adventure from Sha Tau Kok Pier at 8:30 AM.
- Explore Kat O: Arrive at Kat O (Crooked Island) at 9:15 AM. You have a solid 2 hours here.
- Ferry to Lai Chi Wo: Catch 11:15 AM ferry from Kat O, Arriving at Lai Chi Wo at 11:30 AM.
- Explore Lai Chi Wo: You have 1.5 hours to discover this ancient Hakka walled village. Walk through the preserved houses and enjoy the tranquil atmosphere.
- Ferry to Ap Chau: Catch 1:00 PM ferry from Lai Chi Wo. Arrive at Ap Chau (Duck Island) at 1:30 PM.
- Explore Ap Chau: You have a around 2 hours to explore.
- Return Ferry: Depart Ap Chau by ferry at 3:45 PM. Arrive back at Sha Tau Kok Pier around 4:45 PM.
From Ma Liu Shui Pier
Ma Liu Shui Pier offers an alternative starting point that doesn’t require a permit. This service mainly operates on weekends and public holidays.
Getting to Ma Liu Shui Pier: Take the MTR East Rail Line to University Station. From University Station, either Take bus 272K to Ma Liu Shui Public Pier (first stop) or walk to the Pier from MTR Station Exit B, following the signs for Ma Liu Shui Pier.
Kaito Ferry Service Details
Schedule: Departs at 9:00 AM on Saturdays, Sundays, and Public Holidays, returning at 5:00 PM to Ma Liu Shui Pier.
Duration: The journey to and from the islands takes approximately 1.5–2 hours. There is ample time to explore the villages before returning to Ma Liu Shui.
Fare: $45 HKD for a single journey and $90 HKD for a round trip.
Service Information: One ferry service includes both Ap Chau and Kat O, while a seperate one runs for Lai Chi Wo. It’s not yet possible to visit all three islands (Lai Chi Wo, Kat O, and Ap Chau) on a single, continuous hop-on/hop-off journey from Ma Liu Shui Pier using public services. You will need to separate your adventure into two different trips.
Suggested Itinerary
The Ap Chau/Kat O ferry service has two stops, allowing visitors to explore both islands. However, the journey is only one way. if you get off in Kat O (the first stop), you will not be able to get to Ap Chau. To help you make the most of your visit, here’s a sample itinerary to cover both islands effectively.
- Departure: Start your adventure from Ma Liu Shui at 9:00 AM. Enjoy a scenic 90-minute ferry ride, passing through stunning waters.
- Explore Ap Chau: Skip the first stop at Kat O, arriving at 10:45 AM. Instead, continue for an additional 15 minutes to Ap Chau. Spend 1 to 1.5 hours exploring the charming island.
- Ferry to Kat O: Catch the 12:30 PM ferry to Kat O, arriving at 12:45 PM, just in time for lunch.
- Explore Kat O: Have lunch and enjoy 2 to 3 hours in Kat O.
- Return Ferry: Depart from Kat O public pier at 3:30 PM for your return trip. After another relaxing 90-minute ride, you’ll arrive back at Ma Liu Shui by 5:00 PM.
From Tai Shui Hang
Tai Shui Hang offers an alternative starting point for a weekday adventure to Kat O and Ap Chau and Lai Chi Wo. This option also does not require a permit.
Getting to Tai Shui Hang: Walk ~6 minutes from MTR Tai Shui Hang Station Exit A to Shatin Area 77 Landing.
Kaito Ferry Service Details
Schedule: This service only operates on Tuesdays and Thursday.
Duration: The journey to and from the islands takes approximately 2 hours.
Fare: $80 HKD for a round trip, $60 HKD for only return trip from the islands.
Disclaimer: Visitors should be aware of the ferry schedule to avoid missing the return trip, particularly because these villages are in a remote area. It is advisable to arrive at the pier at least 15 minutes before the departure is scheduled.
If you miss the last kaito ferry from Lai Chi Wo, your options include a lengthy 2–3 hour hike to Wu Kau Tang for a taxi or minibus, or checking with the village kiosk about expensive private speedboat hires.
Missing the last ferry from Kat O may leave you stranded, with limited alternatives like chartering a costly private boat or finding a local to help you reach the mainland.
Additional Tips
- What to Pack:
- Sun Protection: Hat, sunglasses, sunscreen – the sun can be intense on the water and in the villages!
- Plenty of Water & Snacks: Options might be limited on some islands, so stay hydrated and fueled.
- Comfy Shoes: You’ll be doing a fair bit of walking and exploring in the villages and on the piers.
- Camera: For all those absolutely stunning views and unique sights!
- Best Time to Visit: The cooler, drier months (October to March) offer the most pleasant weather for exploring and hiking.
- Ferry Service Warning: Plan Your Day Meticulously! Ferry services to these remote islands are not frequent. Always double-check the latest schedule on the transport department’s website or the operator’s website.
- Respect the Locals: Remember, these are living villages. Be mindful and respectful of the local residents and their homes.
- Leave No Trace: Help keep these beautiful hidden gems pristine!
Conclusion
The Double Haven islands offer an escape that blends history, nature, and pure discovery into one unforgettable day! From the unique geological wonders of Ap Chau and Kat O to the serene Hakka heritage of Lai Chi Wo, this adventure truly showcases a different, magical side of Hong Kong.
Trust me, this is an adventure that will leave you absolutely mesmerized! Let me know in the comments if you’re planning your trip or if you’ve already discovered these incredible places! Happy travels!
