If you think you know Hong Kong, think again! Beyond the skyscrapers and bustling markets lies a truly secret, untouched side – a world of unique history, charming local life. I am talking about an adventure into Sha Tau Kok’s Restricted Frontier, a place that feels like stepping back in time. In this post, join me as I dive deep into Hong Kong’s unique heritage and experience a truly off-the-beaten-path destination together. Imagine exploring a historic border town, filled with stories, vibrant murals, and some of the most beautiful coastal views.
Ready to unlock one of Hong Kong’s truly best-kept secrets? Here’s exactly how to get your permit, how to get there, and all the amazing things you must see in Sha Tau Kok town itself!
For more travel inspiration, check out the rest of our Hong Kong travel guides, including hidden gems, beautiful beaches, and in-depth neighborhood explorations.
Sha Tau Kok Background
For decades, Sha Tau Kok was a place shrouded in mystery, a border town divided by the Hong Kong–China line. Designated as part of the Frontier Closed Area in 1951, it was closed off to non-residents to deter smugglers and illegal immigrants. Only those with a special Closed Area Permit, often requiring a guarantee from a local resident, were allowed entry.
However, wanting to encourage tourism to this unique area, the Hong Kong government finally began allowing outsiders to visit! The program first opened to tour groups in 2022 and was wonderfully expanded in 2024 to enable individual visitors to apply for the Closed Area Permit. This means that now you, too, can explore this fascinating hidden gem.
What to See in Sha Tau Kok Town
Nestled close to the border with mainland China, Sha Tau Kok is definitely worth a visit for its blend of history and local life. You’ll find local markets, delicious street food, and beautifully colored estate buildings, perfect for a peaceful stroll. Let me tell you about some of the absolute must-visit attractions within the town:
Vibrant Street Murals
Located near the old fire station, right where the bus stops, Shun Ping Street boasts two impressive murals depicting the deity-thanking ceremony, a traditional cultural event unique to Sha Tau Kok. Apparently, this celebration takes place every 10 years. I do hope I can pay another visit then! You’ll find similar colorful and vibrant murals all over Sha Tau Kok. You’re able to learn so much about how life was for local residents of this town through them!
Colorful Houses
Keep an eye out for these unique estate buildings. Since 2020, older blocks have been renovated with pastel purple, orange, pink, and apple green paint. Some blocks, painted in pastel orange with white horizontal stripes, look just like salmon fillets, earning them the adorable nickname ‘Salmon House’. I was able to get some very aesthetic shots here; I think photographers would especially love this area.
Starling Inlet
This area offers truly breathtaking natural beauty. It’s often referred to as “the Mirror in the Sea,” and for good reason, the reflections of both the colorful buildings and the small fishing boats are simply stunning! The view of the estate buildings from this location made me feel, for a moment, as if I had arrived in the Netherlands.
Old Sha Tau Kok Fire Station
Opened in 1962 and ceased operation in 2004, the Old Sha Tau Kok Fire Station still preserves its original appearance. It’s a fantastic piece of local history.
Sha Tau Kok Pier
This is Hong Kong’s longest pier, built in the 1960s. It offers unique views of Plover Cove Country Park on one side and the urban skyline of Shenzhen on the other. The Double Haven Islands (more below) are only 20 to 30 minutes away by ferry from here.
As you walk down the pier, you’ll notice little wooden fish hanging from the railings. These are ‘wish fish’ that you can write your wishes on, which will then get passed on to the sea. All you need to do is get one of these fish from the self-service souvenir vending machine at the pier entrance, and wish away! It’s such a charming tradition.
Cape of Sha Tau Kok
At the easternmost corner of Sha Tau Kok, you’ll find an old signpost that says ‘Cape of Sha Tau Kok’, along with its coordinates. In front of it, a stone plaque bears two poetic lines: ‘the sun rises from the beach (Sha Tau), / the moon hangs above the cape (Kok).’ This is a fantastic vantage point to get sweeping views of Starling Inlet’s natural coastline.
Chung Ying Street Garden
Chung Ying Street itself is a fascinating border street, but it’s off-limits to most visitors, as one side is on the Mainland China side. However, you can get a full view of the goings-on from the observation deck at Chung Ying Street Garden. It’s the closest tourists can get to this unique thoroughfare. You can even wave hi to visitors on the Mainland side! Here, you’ll also find a life-size locomotive model against a retro railway station backdrop, and you can hang wishing plaques on the viewing deck’s railings for good luck.
San Lau Street
Take a trip back in time by strolling through Hong Kong’s largest Guangzhou-style arcade complex right here on San Lau Street. The buildings were built on reclaimed land in the early 20th century and are among the few preserved Cantonese veranda-type shophouses in Hong Kong. They’re known for their stunning blend of Chinese and Western architectural styles – the ground floor houses shops, while the upper storeys are residential. In 2011, all 22 veranda-type shophouses on San Lau Street were accorded Grade 2 historic building status. They’re so beautiful!
Fish Lantern Square
This unique landmark pays tribute to the Sha Tau Kok fish lantern dance, a tradition that goes back more than 300 years and was listed as a national intangible cultural heritage in 2008. It’s a beautiful demonstration of the Hakka people’s custom of worshipping Tin Hau, with dancers mimicking fish movements with candle-lit lanterns!
Local Delicacies to Try
Sha Tau Kok also boasts some unique local dishes! I personally wasn’t able to try everything during my trip, but I learned about Hakka-style pork bowls (traditionally prepared by married women for Chinese New Year) and unique pineapple buns served with corned beef and fried eggs. If you’re a foodie, definitely look more into the local delicacies of Sha Tau Kok!
How To Get a Closed Area Permit for Sha Tau Kok
This is the most important step for an independent visit! Obtaining a Tourism Closed Area Permit is essential to access Sha Tau Kok.
Applying for Your Permit:
- Online Application: Anyone interested in visiting Sha Tau Kok can visit the Hong Kong Police Force website and apply for a Tourism Closed Area Permit online.
- Cost: These permits are free.
- Validity: Permits are valid for one day only.
- Submission Time: All applications must be submitted at least three working days before the intended day of visit. (My permit only took a day to process, though, so sometimes you get lucky!)
- Quota: There are no longer quota restrictions on permit applications, which is fantastic.
Required Documents for Application:
- For the Applicant: Identity Document (HKID / Passport)
- For Other Tourists in Your Group: Identity Document (For HK residents – HKID; For non-HK residents – Passport / other valid travel document)
How to Get to Sha Tau Kok Town:
Once your permit is secured, you have a few options:
- Public Transport: From Sheung Shui MTR station, you can take Bus 78S/78K or Minibus 55K (which is generally more frequent). From Lam Tin MTR Station, you can take bus 277A.
- Private Car: Visitors holding a valid Closed Area Permit may travel by private car. You will need to reserve and park your vehicle at the car park near the entrance of the Sha Tau Kok Frontier Closed Area via the operator’s website in advance.
Note that Sha Tau Kok is open every day from 7:00 AM to 9:00 PM only.
Beyond the Town: Island Hopping
So, you’ve successfully secured your permit and explored the fascinating history and unique attractions of Sha Tau Kok town – amazing! But guess what? Your adventure has only just begun.
From Sha Tau Kok Pier, you have the incredible opportunity to embark on an unforgettable one-day island-hopping trip to Double Haven, visiting three of Hong Kong’s charming and remote islands: Lai Chi Wo, Ap Chau, and Kat O! This is where Hong Kong truly transforms, revealing pristine waters, ancient villages, and geological wonders that will absolutely mesmerize you.
Head over to my post on Hong Kong Double Haven Island Hopping Guide for all the essential details on island hopping in Double Haven Area of Hong Kong.
Conclusion
Exploring Sha Tau Kok town is an adventure in itself, a truly unique glimpse into Hong Kong’s rich history and frontier life. From its historic fire station to charming murals, the unique Salmon House, and the bustling pier with its ‘wish fish’ tradition, there’s so much to discover! Let me know in the comments if you’re planning your trip or if you’ve already discovered these incredible places. Happy travels!
